Between Tulum and Valladolid
If you're leaving from Valladolid and heading for the coast, or looking for the fastest way to Tulum from Merida (or vice versa), you will find yourself on the road of which we speak. The first time we drove this road four years ago, it was two narrow pot-holed lanes between kilometers and kilometers of jungle on both sides... and not much else.
Things have changed a bit.
Starting in Tulum, the road leaves from the corner where the San Francisco Assis grocery store is located. The signs point to Coba and Valladolid. At this end, they are starting to widen the road, so there is a nice wide road to start, some construction, and then it narrows for the rest of the way. The narrow road is not for the first-time driver in Mexico, perhaps, but if you are used to driving here, you should have no problems. The pot holes are mostly gone, but it is still narrow for most of the way, and cars do drive fast.
But don't let that stop you, because there is much to discover on this road. One of the first things you will see is a cenote, (whose name escapes us at the moment), where swimming and scuba diving are available. Tour buses seem to stop here, so it must be good... and one day, we'll find the time to go there and let you know all about it. (Feel free to comment if you've been there!)
Fairly soon after leaving Tulum, you will pass three small pueblos. In each pueblo are artisans who create handmade wooden furniture, replicas of Mayan ancient relics, figurative wooden sculptures, planters made from logs, masks and stone carvings. There are also fresh juice stands with everything from cocos frios (cold coconuts that they poke a whole in so you can drink the coconut water) to mandarina (tangerine) or naranja (orange) or whatever is in season. Don't hesitate to stop at these little villages and sample their wares. The people are friendly and some of the crafts are quite exquisite.
For instance, in the middle village there is an older gentleman who has spent his life making exacting replicas of ancient Mayan sculptures. He has an extensive art book collection from which he creates his sculptures. He and his son sculpt from plaster, stone and clay and his creations are not cheap, but they are exquisite. And from what he says, his work is collected by people from around the world. I know of at least one of his works that resides on a shelf in a modern 33-floor high rise apartment in Las Vegas!
Continuing on the road towards the north, you will come to a glorieta (roundabout) where you can turn off to go to the Mayan ruin of Coba to the left. If you continue north (straight ahead or todo derecho, as they say here in Yucatan), you will come to the libre (free) road that parallels the carretera (toll road) from Cancun to Merida. Turn left here to go towards Valladolid.
On our last trip this way, we weren't interested in going into the town of Valladolid. The town is well worth the trip, but we didn't have time. Instead, we stopped at a restaurant called Restaurante Hacienda Ticuch. This restaurant has been built to look like an old hacienda, though it is new construction. The main building houses the kitchen, an indoor dining area and a gift shop. If the weather is nice, we suggest sitting outside under the palapa-covered tables. While you are waiting for your meal, take a stroll towards the back of the property along a well-maintained path where you will see a dozen or so peacocks strutting their stuff. At the end of the path is a capilla (chapel) dedicated to El Cristo de Las Ampules (the Christ of the Blisters). Its a lovely spot and a peaceful place to stop in the middle of this long drive.
The food was delicious too! Some of the best sopa de lima (lime soup) that any of us have ever tasted. We had fresh fish, arrachera and delicious homemade tortillas. The food was fresh and well prepared and we would go back again.
Just past the restaurant, turn right to follow the signs to Merida. At the next stop, follow the sign to Merida if you want to continue on the libre road, or go towards Tizimin if you want to get on the carretera here. If you neglected to eat at Hacienda Tucich, then stop at the halfway point on the carretera, and eat at one of the little restaurants. The tacos and tamales have always been delicious here. We prefer the restaurant with the big shiny capuccino machine. A cappucino for the road makes the rest of the drive back to Merida that much easier.
Comments
Carolyn 17 years ago
Any suggestions on places to stop, ceynotes or other interesting places to stop between Merida and Xcalak?
Reply
Marian 17 years ago
The two of us are interested in getting off the beaten path (avoiding large hotel resorts and other trendy development) and snorkeling, kayaking. We travel by bus. Any travel info on Xcalak? We understand the bus from there to Merida (to catch our plane back to the States) is a long 12 hour ride. Any info on Yucatan plane travel?
We are thinking Bahias de Punta Soliman may be an alternative as it is easier to get to.
Thank you for any insider tips on Xcalak, plane travel within Yucatan, or Bahias de PUncta Soliman.
Marian
Reply
Working Gringos 18 years ago
Hola, Ellen....
It sounds like a great itinerary...you've got a lot planned. Like you, we can't think of anything else to do with your rental car on Holbox. We're not sure we would spend three whole days there, although the lobster and shrimp ceviche might tempt us to. One day to go out on a boat and see the whalesharks, another day to walk around the island doing nothing and we would probably move on. There is so much else to see!
The best time to see Tulum would be when you get to Playa del Carmen. It's just forty minutes south of there. Then you can head up the coast highway to Holbox. It takes about two or three hours to get from Playa del Carmen to Holbox, depending on whether or not you get lost and if you stop anywhere. At least, we would leave ourselves that much time. Once you're settled in Ek Balam, you can drive west to Chichen Itza on the 180 Autopista in about an hour. Or drive south across the Autopista to Valladolid in about 25 minutes. While you are in that part of the world, be sure to visit Uayma too. You'll be glad you did.
Being in the Yucatan is all about NOT being in a hurry, so try not to pack your days with too much to do. The best thing about being here is letting the road take you wherever it's going. Leave room in your itinerary for serendipity and magic.
Other than that, just relax and have a wonderful trip! You're in for a treat!!
Reply
Ellen Waddle 18 years ago
Hola! February 26, 2007.
I have spent literally months researching and reveling in Yucatacan culture and locations on the internet. I am so excited - my husband told me I could pick anywhere in the world to go for my birthday. I am planning the adventure of a lifetime and chose the Yucatan! I am writing because your website shares invaluable information - no one on the web has everything - but to have someone willing to really "spell it out" is thrilling. I hope you still check your email from this site - thank you for your generosity in answer travelers' questions. Here's mine:
We have reservations on Cozumel for several days. Then we want to rent a car in Playa del Carmen and somehow end up on Holbox Island. We realize we'll have to leave the rental car at Chiquila (costly but must pay for 3 rental car days and leave it parked there - but can't figure out what else to do with the rental car). Then we will return from Holbox by ferry, get the car and drive to Ek Balam where we have reservations at Genesis Eco Lodge and will stay two days (2 nights). During that time we'd like to see cenotes, villages and Valladolid. But we also want to see Chichen-Itza and Tulum. I can't find a map that shows that loop and/or tells the number of kilometers or miles between each. I am trying to calculate the hours we'll be on the road and where we'll be when it gets dark - so basically how long it will take to do everything we've planned! Got any suggestions? The only thing for sure are our reservation dates on Cozumel, Isla Holbox and Ek Balam. The route is flexible. Thank you for reading this long-winded question! Cordially, Ellen
Reply
Rick A. 18 years ago
Great article. My wife and I drove from Valladolid to Tulum during our honeymoon back in 1981. The road was very primitive then. Much of it packed dirt if I remember. We saw numerous large snakes crossing the road and a large buzzard smashed into the window of our rental car! We discovered Coba too. Quite an exciting trip.We've done it a few more times since then and there is always something different to discover.
Reply
Working Gringos 18 years ago
Nancy,
We've never heard of anyone being overcharged for lack of availability, although anything can happen. Prices are posted and walk-ins pay the posted price. You may hear of others paying less, but this is usually because they are part of a tour group.
One night at Hacienda Chichen is worth the splurge, especially if it keeps a couple tired drivers off the autopista. ;)
There are buses, colectivos and even taxis between Chichen Itza (Piste) and Valladolid, and between Valladolid and Tulum. Almost every colonial town is connected in this way. You may have to wait awhile for the bus you need however, since their schedules are designed for the locals, not for tourists.
Reply
Nancy 18 years ago
Thanks, again. I wasn't necessarily looking for a bargain, although I would certainly be glad for it. I was more concerned about being overcharged if there were no other choices available in that local. We may inquire into the Hacienda Chichen, although it is more than we want to spend. It looks like a lovely place.
Thanks, also, for the "Driving in Yucatan" page. I've been really apprehensive about renting a vehicle with everything I have read prior. My first thoughts were to go strictly by bus and colectivos, but I wasn't sure how I would go from place to place while playing it loose with our itinerary. I also wasn't sure about the abundance and frequencies of the buses and colectivos within the interior Yucatan. Are colectivos as prevalent in interior Yucatan as they are within Riviera Maya?
Thanks, again. You have a great website!
Reply
Working Gringos 18 years ago
Oye Nancy, there are some very nice places to stay in Tulum, Valladolid, Ek Balam and Chichen Itza, but we wouldn't expect to get a bargain between November and April, which is peak tourist season (although Working Gringa says, "it never hurts to ask!").
The autopista between Chichen Itza and Valladolid and Ek Balam is an easy drive and we have frequently done it at night, but after a full day of touring and dinner, why knock yourself out? We'd stay at Hacienda Chichen and walk back to our rooms after the Luz y Sonido. If you haven't already, you may want to read our article on Driving in Yucatan.
Reply
Nancy 18 years ago
Thanks so much for the information! Have you found that lodging places charge more or less than what is advertised when you just drop by? In other words, would the price bump up because of supply and demand or by us appearing desperate with no other place to go?
This is our first time to the Yucatan Peninsula and I'd love to see Merida and the western coast, but a weeks time is not enough to give all the areas the justice they deserve. For this trip, we plan to visit Tulum, Coba, Valladolid, Dzitnup, Ek Balam, Chichen-Itza (not necessarily in that order).
One last question, from everything I have researched and read, it appears that night driving is not recommended. However, let us say that we are at Chichen-Itza to see the light show after a day of touring and dinner, would driving to a hotel in Ek Balam or Valladolid afterwards be ill advised?
Thanks, again for your quick response and for all of your information!
Reply
Working Gringos 18 years ago
Hola Nancy,
The village of Ticul is the only place in Yucatan we know that has a tradition of pottery making, but this is mostly terra cotta planters cured in wood-fired kilns, not suitable for cooking. Most high-quality ceramica comes from the states of Puebla, Michoacan and Jalisco. You can find these wares in Yucatan, mostly in stores where tourists shop, located in Cancun, Playa del Carmen and Merida.
We've traveled around Mexico with a "loose itinerary" and never had any problem finding lodging, as long as we planned to arrive at a large city or well-known tourist destination by nightfall. Fact is, most small Mexican pueblos do not have formal lodging facilities. On the Yucatan Peninsula, you will always find a room somewhere on the Caribbean coast and in Merida. There are a few hotels and hostels in the smaller colonial cities, like Valladolid and Campeche. And there is lodging scattered along the Gulf Coast, in places like Celestun, Progreso, Telchac Puerto and Isla Holbox.
Reply
Nancy 18 years ago
Hi there. Thanks for all your information. I have two questions. 1) Do you know of anyone making ceramic/clay cookware for ovens? 2) Is it possible and/or advisable to travel around exploring and then, when you want to crash in that location for the night is it easy to find a vacancy within any given Yucatan village or city location during the first week of December? My husband and I like to explore, while keeping a loose itinerary. Thanks for your information.
Reply
« Back (20 to 31 comments)Next »