Regional Cuisine / How To Make Panuchos and Salbutes

How To Make Panuchos and Salbutes

How To Make Panuchos and Salbutes

30 March 2009 Regional Cuisine 41

Where's the Mexican Food?

Anyone who lives here will tell you that one of the best things about living in the Yucatan is the food. When we visited here and bought a house, we were still clueless about Yucatecan cuisine... we had no idea about the treasure trove of tastes and delights that we had stumbled into. Our idea of Mexican food was formed in California, where Taco Bell and chicken enchiladas rule the day. So imagine our surprise when we couldn't find a quesadilla or a burrito to save our souls (or our stomachs), but instead were presented with tiny little tortillas and things like castacan and cochinita. What the hey?

As in many cultures, the food was another avenue of learning for us about the unique place that Yucatan holds in Mexico and in the world. And learn we did.

Fast forward seven years and now we're very practiced at eating everything from that aforementioned cochinita and castacan to pavo relleno negro and papadzules. We know what a pib is and we can tell the difference between a habanero and a xcatic.

In the interest of passing on our hard-won knowledge, we plan to bring you a recipe from time-to-time. Some will be reproduceable, others might just be for show. The food here is not just full of flavor, but it is full of stories too. We are not cooks by profession, but we tend to eat rather regularly. And we love a good tale as much as a good table.

Here, then, in response to a request that was sent to Yucatan Living recently, is how we have learned that one can make authentic Yucatan panuchos and salbutes.

How To Make Panuchos

1. Sharpen your machete, stroll casually into your backyard and select a healthy pollo (chicken) or, if it’s a special occasion, a pavo (turkey). Using the machete, remove the head. Let drain. Deposit in a bucket of warm water for several minutes until the feathers can be easily removed by your eldest daughter. Remove feet and internal organs. Wash thoroughly.

2. Pick some naranjas agridulces (sour oranges) from your tree and squeeze the juice into a bowl. Add achiote (annatto paste) until thickened. Add sal (salt) to taste. Spread generously over the bird inside and out. Wrap bird in moist hojas de platano (banana leaves).

3. Remove your son’s soccer ball from your pib (the one- to two-foot-deep baking hole you’ve dug in the back yard). Start a wood fire in the pib and let burn until you have a floor of glowing red embers. Spread two to three centimeters of moist earth over the embers. Deposit the pollo in the pib and fill the hole with dirt. Let bake until done, usually 1 to 2 hours depending on the size of the bird (more time is required for a standard pavo).

4. Send your wife, suegra (mother-in-law) or the woman in your family with the smallest hands next door to the Maseca, Sumasa or Minsa tienda (store) to purchase half a kilogram (about a pound) of harina de maíz (corn flour), more commonly called masa. She will know to mix this slowly with water (roughly two cups masa with 1/4 to 1/3 cups water), while kneading the dough into a ball.

5. Cut off the bottom of a 50 gallon oil drum and prop it about a foot off the ground with large stones on two sides. Start a wood fire underneath.  Wait until any oil or other residue on the metal is burned away before using.

6. Your wife, suegra, hermana (sister) and a few other women in the family will sit around a table. Each will portion about two tablespoons of masa dough from the ball and pat into a tortilla using nothing but her tiny hands. The resulting tortilla will be about four inches in diameter, maximum.

7. She will set the raw tortillas, two at a time, on the hot metal comal (grill) constructed from the 50 gallon drum, letting them cook for about 30 to 45 seconds on each side. If she is planning to make panuchos, she will tamp them down a bit around the edges with an index finger (the tortillas tend to inflate when you do that). When each tortilla is finished cooking, she will deposit them in her lek (round, dried, hollow gourd with the top cut off), which has been lined inside with a clean, brightly-colored kitchen towel. Keep covered.

8. Remove the baked bird from the pib and let cool. Your second daughter will shred the meat from the bird by hand into short strips about two centimeters long with the circumference of a soda straw. Keep the shredded meat in a bowl and cover. Don’t forget to remind your daughter to wash her hands before and after.

9. Squeeze the juice of several limones (Yucatan lemons, which are more like limes) into a small bowl. Add finely-diced habanero chile picked from the bush growing next to the front door and, optionally, finely-diced cilantro.

10. By now, your youngest daughter (or perhaps the friendly wife of a neighbor) has diced some jitomates (tomatoes), pepinos (cucumbers),aguacates (avocados) and maybe lechuga (lettuce).  Someone has brought out a bowl of cebolla morada (purple onions), previously sliced and marinated in naranja agria.

11. Now it's time to make a panucho. Take a warmed, cooked little tortilla balloon, and slit it open enough to deposit a spoonful or two of black bean paste inside. Drop the tortilla into a pot of hot oil and deep fry it.

12. Remove the now-crispy tortilla, place it on your plate, layer on lettuce, shredded chicken or turkey, cucumber, cebolla morada, tomato and avocado, in that order. Sprinkle habanero sauce over all, if you like to sweat and pant while you eat. That's a panucho!

13. Eat and enjoy, probably with a side of ice-cold Mexican Coca-Cola.

Would you Rather Have a Salbute?

Then skip Step 7. Drop the fresh uncooked tortillas directly into the hot oil for deep frying. The resulting tortilla will be softer, and will not be puffed up like a balloon. Skip Step 11 and go directly to Step 12. That's a salbute!

Repeat Step 13. Often.

Buen provecho!

 

Comments

  • Working Gringos 6 years ago

    Sounds like fun!! And you should be able to find the achiote paste at the Mexican market.

  • Patt Barrington 6 years ago

    Ellen, Sunday is Cinco de Mayo and I am making Sopa de Lima and Panuchos! I'm on a mission to find annatto paste in southeast Texas! I have yet to find one ingredient to make Micheladas. Sending best friend, ex hubby, to Latinos markets tomorrow. How cool is that?

  • Working Gringos 7 years ago

    Mary, you seem to have been chosen by the Yucatan and now you're hooked. We know the feeling! Stay tuned to our Facebook page... not only do we report all our new articles there but anytime we find information about a Yucatecan restaurant somewhere around the world, we definitely post it.

  • Mary 7 years ago

    Really great article! Loved the authenticity of the cooking methods. I just got back to the US from a study abroad program in Mérida, for six and a half weeks. The goal was to improve my español by speaking absolutely no English for the entire time. Not only did I achieve that, but I even learned a bit of Maya! I also learned a ton about the food and culture living with my host family; ahora Mérida is like a second home for me.

    What I'm really trying to say is that it's been less than a week since I returned, and I'm already craving my Yucatecan food. I miss eating cochinita pibil and marquesitas in the streets with a side of Mexican Coca-Cola. :( I'm secretly planning ways to go back to Yucatán ASAP.

    I live in Indiana, and I am not familiar with any Yucatecan restaurants. I have a recipe book which I purchased in my time abroad, and I even managed to find some of the rarer ingredients in a local Mexican food market, but panuchos seem to be evading me. Are there any good tips or tricks for making these in a modern American kitchen, or even in a communal college dorm kitchenette? Not only do I want to make panuchos for myself, but I would also like to introduce my family and friends to them as well. (I already had a great success with tacos de poc chuc. I have a feeling these will become another staple.)

  • maggie 7 years ago

    If anyone lives in Vermont, there is a great restaurant in Brattleboro called 3 Stones that serves the best Yucatan food I have ever had.

  • Belina Anchondo Garcia 8 years ago

    Hi Ellen!
    Long time no Yucatan.... and always missing it, especially the food. Luckily we make it at home but the ambiance is definitely missing. There's nothing like being there and having Panuchos or Salbutes in Sta Ana park, sitting around and chatting with friends.... maybe having a cool agua de pitaya too!
    Best of luck.... if you want recipes or more on Mexican food let me know or just check my blogs.....Saludos de Las Vegas....

  • George 8 years ago

    Yucatecan food in the US? I doubt it. It took Mexico City a long time to have Yucatecan restaurants. I still eat Taco Bell crunchy tacos in St. Louis, but never would tell someone that it's Mexican food. They are better than White Castle. Remember, Yucatecans don't consider YUC part of the rest of the country.

  • paul lawrence 8 years ago

    You could also make a healthy version of this by skipping the oil & using the warmed straight off the griddle flour or corn tortillas, they taste better with no oily after taste.

  • Tony 9 years ago

    Good luck find panuchos anywhere in central Florida. Even the "Authentic Mexican" restaurants have no idea what they are. :-(

    Unfortunately, I do not have enough daughters to make this recipe, and I fear my HOA would not allow the 55-gallon cooking drum in my yard.

  • despadas 9 years ago

    I am a "gringa" married to a Yucateco for 20 years, living in Houston. Your site has really been helpful for me to understand how to make dishes I have been trying to do for years. My husband wants dishes like Mom used to make & it is really difficult to find English versions of recipes.
    Thanks.

  • ingrith 9 years ago

    If preparing a panucho sounds like lots of work, don't worry, there's this place in LA ALEMAN, on 26th avenue across from Aleman Park, almost across from IZA drugstore. The name of the store, if i'm not mistaken, is "EL PANUCHO DE KANASÍN". One panucho will fill your stomach because they're not big, but tall! They have a lot of turkey meat and many traditional things to dress them.

    Another place in LA ALEMAN, is la "TERRACITA DE LA ALEMAN", in front of the Cano y Cano school and the OXXO. Ohh, the best panuchos ever! Get the "pico de gallo sauce" to put on your salbutes or panuchos and a fresh Horchata. You should also ask for their delicious "cáldo de pavo" (turkey soup) or a "vaporcito" (a small tamal) to finish your dinner. If you prefer you can also get a "Colado" another tamal, which is softer and better.

    If you're thinking of visiting Mérida, el MERCADO DE LA ALEMÁN is also a good option if you want all this stuff as breakfast.

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