We’re willing to bet that if you’ve read anything about Mexico in the mainstream media lately, you’ve read something about either the violence in Oaxaca or murders in Ciudad Juarez or the contested presidential election that left the losing candidate declaring fraud and not recognizing the decision of the election commission. The papers are always happy to print bad news about Mexico.
And if you’re like most norteamericanos, these news stories have probably left you feeling uncomfortable about traveling to Mexico and especially about living here. Reading the U.S. State Department’s Travel Tips might give you pause for thought, as they warn against crime in various parts of the country and encourage you to register with the embassy whenever you travel to Mexico so they can contact you in an emergency.
But we invite you to imagine that you are a foreigner contemplating a trip to the United States, knowing as much about it as you do about Mexico. You might read headlines about snipers randomly shooting people near the nation’s capital, or men locking themselves in classrooms to rape and kill schoolgirls, or drive-by murders between gang members, or mothers drowning their babies. You might read about brutal police tactics using rubber bullets, tear gas and Tasers against peaceful demonstrators. You might read about drug enforcement officers mistakenly breaking into the wrong homes and killing the inhabitants. You would read how business executives become politicians who make laws legalizing corruption and then retire to become lobbyists (or vice-versa). You might also read how a majority of people voted for a presidential candidate who subsequently lost due to questionable election rules and court decisions.
As a U.S. citizen, you might be offended to learn that the country of apple pie and baseball does not seem so wonderful when a foreigner reads about it in the papers. You might want to say, "wait a minute, that’s not my country!" As a U.S. citizen you know these incidents - while unfortunate and true - do not affect everyday life for the majority of people. You know that there may be problems, but there is so much more to experience in the U.S. than these stories tell.
We have lived in Mexico for several years, and we know that everyday life here is not affected by the headlines. There is so much more to life in Mexico than the stories told in the newspapers.
We have lived in the heart of a Mexican city, in the Centro Historico, just five blocks from the zocalo, in Merida. This city’s population is approaching one million. We live on a busy block that has private homes as well as businesses ranging from dental equipment suppliers to doctor’s offices to a printing press. On the corner is a local cantina, La Bar Negrita. On another corner is a tendejon, El Motor Electrico. There is also a bed & breakfast called Hotel Marionetas and a public parking lot.
We have a simple lock on our front door. We leave our interior doors to the patio and back yard open, unless it rains. We park our SUV on the street. We walk to and from our office, the zocalo, Paseo de Montejo, and any other number of places at all times of night and day. When our 16-year old daughter lived here, she would walk to and from a friend’s house at night by herself. Now and then, we absent-mindedly forget our purse or wallet in the car. Other times, we have left something valuable in the car, like a camera, while we do our errands around town. We aren’t stupid about it… we just aren’t paranoid.
We have never been accosted. We have never been robbed. The worst thing that’s happened to us is someone "collected" our California license plates. But nobody bothers to take our new Yucatan license plates.
We have been stopped by policemen on occasion for minor traffic "misunderstandings". Most of these were legitimate, while a couple seemed inappropriate, but we were always treated with the utmost respect by those policemen and have never been in a situation here in Yucatan where anyone expected us to pay la mordita (a bribe).
Sure, you can find stories of people who have been robbed. There have been several murders in Merida since we moved here, but these are surprisingly few given Merida’s size. There was some violence around one of the local newspaper offices a few months ago involving a home-made bomb. There are often political rallies and demonstrations, almost always peaceful. The most violence we’ve seen was when the city wanted to change the local bus routes and the workers from the surrounding pueblos arrived at the zocalo armed with stones to protest. A tear gas canister was fired at the crowd, but by midnight the mayor had restored the original routes and the protesters went home. It’s not always tidy in Mexico - this isn’t Switzerland - but the problems in Mexico that we confront are nothing compared to what U.S. citizens living in big cities accept and live with every day.
Yucatan has something special going on. There’s a peaceful co-existence here between people from many different cultures and walks of life that you seldom find in other parts of the world. Yucatecos live and let live. Little has changed and much has changed, producing a culture of tolerance, patience and amable (kindness). Why has Mexico in general and Yucatan in particular developed in this way? Maybe it has to do with the relative isolation this part of the world has endured for many years, but is enjoying now. Maybe it has to do with learning the lessons of their violent history or maybe it’s the survival of their indigenous traditions or the ingredients in the food or the dawn of a new Mayan age in the year 2012. Maybe it’s because it’s really hot here for half the year and nobody can get up the energy to cause trouble. Quien sabe?
Whatever it is, if you are inclined to explore Yucatan, please read those news reports about Mexico with un grano de sal. Remember that Mexico is a very large country and places like Oaxaca and Yucatan are farthar apart than France and England, not just geographically, but culturally as well. Don’t take the word of a few journalists wearing gringo-tinted glasses whose job is to write stories that sell papers. Come down to the Yucatan and find out for yourself what life here is really like.
Yucatan and Merida remain as they have been: muy tranquilo.
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Bravo! Very, very well done.
Ellen,
I miss the safety of Merida so much. I can’t wait to get back. You wrote this exactly as I would tell it too. The media is so slanted towards “be afraid-Mexico is bad” and it’s not true. We have never felt safer than when we were there. Now we’re back in the states and I wouldn’t dare send my kids out to the store by themselves. The streets are too dangerous. There’s registered child molesters every few blocks. The traffic accidents are horrific. I would never walk down our street at 3am. But I would in Merida.
Mexico, haven’t you heard (?), is a Third World - and very dangerous - country - so say my “lap of luxury - guarded and gated community” stateside neighbors… and then, when nobody is looking, they sneak over to me and ask what Yucatan is “really like.” I now give them your web address. Bravo!
Ya got it. So glad you wrote this entry. When San Miguel had a rapist on the loose, it seemed that the people in the US were reporting on it as if every gringa in Mexico was in imminent danger of being raped. He raped 4 women before he was caught. Terrible for the women that it happened to, and one of them was a dear friend, but at the same time there was a series of rapes in one apartment complex in Houston and people were still traveling there. You have a great site.
Your article is so true. When I went to Monterrey NL for the 1st time by bus in 2000, people here in Texas tried to scare me about the Banditos who robbed buses. But I experienced no such thing. Yes, while there is crime and violence in many of the border towns, much of Mexico is relatively peaceable. In fact, I debate wheather to bring my esposa, Ariadna, 100% Yucateca :-), to live here in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. I feel she is safer in Merida.
On another note: A Brazilian woman in Merida came into the Museo de La Ciudad, where my esposa works. She is dating a US citizen. She was worried about marriage to him in Brazil, and they were not economically able to marry in the US. (US Immigration is so stupid.) So, my wife suggested they marry in Merida in Registro Civil, just as we did. Good news! The US Citizen and the Brazilian are planning to marry in Merida. She asked my wife to be a Testigo at her Boda.
My wife says the Museo may be moving to the Correos in March 2007. There are many Cantinas in that area close to the Correos. She has to walk from the Correos to the Parada de Camiones Minnis 2000, near the present Museo de la Ciudad, at night. She said she feels comfortable about walking to the bus stop at night. That’s it for now. Hasta approximo.
Keep the news coming. too many Americans ignore the fact that we in America have people in bed sheets and pointy hats hanging and dragging people behind cars.
You could not have been more correct about Merida. I have traveled there and all over the Yucatan several times in the last 2 years and I felt the safest in Merida. I feel safer there than I do in Brooklyn where I grew up! Also I believe foreigners have an advantage that the Yucatecan people either like having interesting different peaceful people visiting and living in Merida, and having that tourism helps everyone and the tourist that make it to Merida is probably looking for something more that what is spoon fed to them in Cancun. So they communicate with community on a different level. Also what you said was right, it is WAY to hot for most of the year that people just chill out. The lifestyle in the Yucatan is totally different from the lifestyle in Chiapas for sure. It changes with the climate, and the culture.
Of course Mexico is safer! There are not as many lawyers.
Very well done. In the many discussions with friends about our plans to move to Merida it constantly comes up about the crime, can’t drink the water, etc. People tend to turn a blind eye to the problems in their own city or country. A common comment is why move to Mexico, its a third world country. Well here in Vancouver, Canada we have been under a boil water advisory for two weeks and no end in sight, the power has gone out at my home three times in the last three weeks due to wind first (90 kmh wind) and now snow which last night put the power out for 6 hours. Then the crime, car theft and drugs. Most neighborhoods, especially middle to upper class ones, have marijuana grow ops to the tune of 25% or more. Our little enclave of 60 homes has had 10 raids for grow ops. And we have gang issues too. The final straw, the local police have now decided not to report to the media on many crimes as it paints a negative picture! All of this in a city which isn’t much bigger than Merida and supposedly not a third world country. Friends quickly become quiet when reminded of our living conditions. Oh and just so I don’t forget, our socialized medicine is a joke. My wife had to wait to find a family doctor for two months and then had to go for an interview for the doctor to decide if they would take my wife on as a patient and is waiting 3 months to get a mammogram. Oldest son has had to wait 18 months for a simple knee surgery. Anyway, thanks for listening and keep up the good work.
I am leaving Miami, Florida for the reasons we all know, over-crowded everything, not safe, impossible to drive, etc, etc, etc Glad to see this article and know I made a good choice and is the right choice!! See you in a few months
There are some explanations about this peaceful co-existence. Some authors suggest some theories which I hope to share soon.
I agree wholeheartedly. Merida is without question one of the most peaceful and delightful cities I’ve ever visited. I feel quite safe there. The most “dangerous” thing I’ve experienced to date has been pestering from an overly zealous street vendor. Compared to New York City, where I lived for many years, Merida is almost a paradise. Virtually everyone I’ve ever met there has been friendly, helpful, pleasant, and oftentimes charmingly funny. I speak Spanish, which helps, but even without understanding the language I’m sure I would be treated well. I, too, am constantly correcting the mistaken impressions that many foreigners have of Mexico. Parts are dangerous, yes. But not Merida. I plan to continue returning there for many years to come.
Como puedo parar de visitar un lugar con personas tan simpaticas? Pues… no puedo…
I just wanted to take the time to thank you for writing this article. I will be traveling to Merida to teach in January and will be living there until March. Many Americans have warned me about the problems with safety in Mexico and I am so glad that I found your article. It’s incredibly reassuring to know how much you love the city and it makes me much more eager to leave. I can’t thank you enough for the difference that your contribution has made.
My daughter and I spent six days including Christmas in Mexico, and I too found Merida extremely friendly and non-threatening. I speak intermediate level Spanish and have spent time in Venezuela and Ecuador whose cities were dangerous. I did not get the same sense of threatening “vibrations” walking along El Centro’s sometimes empty streets. Christmas Eve we chose to go to a neighborhood church, La Capilla de Divina Providencia, where we were made to feel a part of the congregation and were introduced to the people around us. It was such a nice intimate experience that it didn’t seem to matter that I was splashed head to toe with standing rain water from a passing car as we walked home. (Most of the other cars had traveled slowly through the water. This was an exception. )I know I’d improve my halting Spanish in Merida because everyone would talk to me.
Have been living here for 4 months and love the place, especially how safe it is. By any chance has anybody come up with the exact statistics of safety with comparable cities to Merida? I have heard it is the second safest city in Mexico after Aguas Calientes. Today in the Diario de Yucatan a realtor says that is the second safest city in the world… would be nice to know. Bravo on the article!
I hadn’t seen the site for some time. This is wonderful and factual information about the Yucatan.I’m so proud of you, Trudy, for establishing such a fine and ethical business.Your tours are the best.I loved working with you in the early days, and will make my home ( once again ) in Merida in the future.
The only problem I have ever had in Mexico ocurred outside of Merida. I was pulled over by local police and threatened with arrest (I had done nothing wrong). I cost me all the pesos in my wallet…about $60.US. Left a very bad feeling, I won’t go back to Merida.
Just great! I’m from Switzerland and believe me it is not SO tidy over here as you might think! I was in the Yucatan region and it was wonderful. Did not miss Switzerland at all. Lucky you that can live over there. Keep it up.. spread the news, I’m dreaming of coming back one of these days!
:-))
Hasta luego amigo
Hello My wife is from Merida and we are thinking of moving there from So.Cal. I am 57(retired school teacher) and she is 47. We have two sons Jimmy 10 and Willie 5. Her parents are physically ill and need help so we are thinking of moving there permanently..Who can we contact to get more info about living there? Please reply…Thanks, Richard Vargas
Hola, Richard!
We think perhaps one of the best ways to learn about living here is to read this website… that is one of it’s primary purposes.
Are you specifically looking for help in buying or renting a house? Or in finding a school for your children? There is information and lists of people to contact about all those things on this site.
If there is something else you specifically need, let us know and we’ll try to find it for you!
I read your articles and they are interesting. We are planning to visit Merida in December. My wife and I are planning in moving there in a few years, and your website has helped us a great deal.
We are visiting some of my relatives in QR, and I want her to see the difference in life style. My question is where is best areas in Merida to live?
Dear Victor,
It depends on what you mean by “best”, of course. In general, Merida is quite safe and its people and culture are friendly no matter what part of town you live in.
In terms of life-style, Merida is divided into three main areas: Centro, South and North.
The Centro, where we live, is the original city, which was actually rather small. It is mostly colonial-style buildings, which were built or re-built between 1880 and 1915 during the great henequen boom. This is the area where many foreigners buy and renovate. It has a European style and many cultural venues. You can live in the Centro and find most everything you need without leaving.
In the past thirty years, Merida has grown from a population of about 50,000 to over 800,000 and the city has spread out considerably, engulfing smaller towns in its path. In the South, there are lower-priced cinderblock homes in various styles, mostly 1960-70’s era, and they are usually priced quite low. Some of these areas are where working-class immigrants from other parts of Mexico and South America live. Each neighborhood has its own unique history and atmosphere.
The wealthiest Meridanos have always favored the North. The climate is more temperate, thanks to frequent breezes from the Gulf, so the farther north one lives, the cooler it feels and the closer you are to the beach. Beginning at Colonia Santa Ana in the Centro, and traveling north up the Paseo de Montejo until you reach the gated community of La Ceiba are where you’ll find the most expensive homes and most modern living standards.
The Colonias in the North include, (in no particular order) Garcia Gineres, Pensiones, Monte Cristo, Monte Alban, San Carlos, Villas la Hacienda, Campestre, Montes de Ame, Benito Juarez Norte, Miguel Aleman, Colonia Mexico, Pinos, Maya and Altabrisa, among others.
So if you want a bargain, look to the South. If you want old-world charm, check out the Centro. If you prefer a modern life-style where nearly everyone owns a Beemer, go North.
I have visited Merida only twice. The first time was for lunch and a quick visit to the cenotes. We drove the lovely yet empty roads from Tulum to Merida. We arrived in Merida and had lunch just across from the zocolo; the natural sun light and the beautiful 20 feet doors and windows drew us in like flies. I dreamt about returning to Merida for a real good look and I did just this January 10 - 24 2008. Merida was hosting Cuba and celebrating it’s founding days prior to the beginning of Carnival at the end of the month. I attended the Opera, Ballet, Art Exhibitions at the Museo de la Ciudad, live music perfomances in the streets all over Centro Historic and of course the Olimpo. We drank, danced every night and fell in love with Merida and it’s amazing Yucatecan people. I’m now currently in escrow and looking forward to making Merida my home away from home which is beautiful sunny California. I can’t truly describe how amazing and magical Merida is as well as it’s surrounding Cities and beaches. I’m hooked on Merida “por vida”!
‘Gringo’ is a pejorative term to the people who it is supposed to describe. The only people who addressed me as ‘gringo’ in my many trips through Mexico were those who wished to offend me. Better not to use the term. It alienates too many of your readers.
Yes, I much prefer ‘bolillo’ which is a white bread roll. Sort of the equivalent of “whitey” or “honkie.”
Working Bolillos! mmmm…. fresh bread!
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=bolillo
Or our dear friends could be known as the ‘Working Gabachos.’ Now there’s a perjorative name!
But seriously, Simon, what should all non-Mexican people from the USA and Canada be called? What short-cut name can you use?
“all non-Mexican people from the USA and Canada” is sort of unwieldy.
At any rate, I’m perfectly happy to be a gringo. My friends call me by my name, but I am a gringo. And gringo is better than “whitey” in my book. (Some friends from India have some old-school parents who literally say “whitey” in a very derogatory way.)
Anyway, can’t we all get along. Signed, unalienated
My wife and I just finished a two week trip through the Yucatan peninsula. We drove from Merida to Isal de Mujeres, then to Xpijil (Rio Bec Dreams), then through Mahahual to Placer (Mayan Beach Garden), then to Santa Elena and finally returning to Merida. our experience with the police and military was 100% positive. Our experience with to Mexican people with terrific; they were warm, welcoming and always helpful. Unlike us Americans, they seem culturally attuned to being patient and appreciative of our efforts to learn their language and find our way around their beautiful country.
Go there and enjoy! Just remember if driving that their rules of the road are a bit different than ours.
With the exception of being born in Germany, I have lived in the US all my life. As an adult, it took many years for me to make enough money for the luxury of travel. All but 2 of my adult trips have been to the Yucatan area of Mexico. I do not speak spanish, yet have never been made to feel uncomfortable or uneasy. I was raised by my grandmother who has high morals and follows God faithfully. My grandmother raised me to think of others first and treat others the way I want to be treated. I may be unrealistic, but feel that people in Mexico (touristy areas or not) were raised this way too.
Living in the United States is the only life I have known. Lately I have become increasingly disallusioned with the quality of life here. I am a professional, single woman, 50 years old and my only child is now on his own. I am researching relocation to Merida. I do read press reports…if so I would never live in the US if I was not from here. The US may be prosperous, but the quality of life has disappated significantly. Merida is not perfect, but it is closer to perfect than any city in the US.